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How To Teach Your Parrot Tricks

Parrots are remarkable and intelligent birds. Research proves that parrots have the intellectual abilities of a small child. For many, teaching a parrot tricks for entertainment is enough of a reason to own this bird. However, teaching your parrot tricks can have other purposes and functions. It will transform your parrot into a better behaving and more sociable bird.

When teaching your parrot tricks try to keep the teaching lessons short. Long sessions will only tire the parrot and make it a very negative experience for your bird. You also want to keep the exercise sessions positive and wait to start a training session until you are both ready. Choose a room that is quiet and a free of distractions, as this will improve your parrot’s learning potential and increase the chances of the training to be a success. What’s more, the room should be well lit which will make your parrot more comfortable and more open to new experiences. It is extremely important that you are relaxed and be stress-free when starting to train your parrot. Patience is critical when teaching your parrot tricks, as not having enough patience will greatly affect the way your parrot learns new tricks.

Parrot trick #1 – Step Up

One of the easiest parrot tricks that bird trainers recommend is teaching your parrot how to “step up”. Your parrot will use this exceptionally useful trick all the time and for the rest of his life. Teaching your parrot to step onto the object that is placed in front of him is an easy task. Simply place one finger in front of the bird’s feet and ask him in a calm soothing voice to “step up”. For large birds you using your forearm is recommended. You can use his favorite snack or any food to persuade your parrot to move forward. Remember to award your parrot with the food when he masters the new parrot trick.

Parrot trick #2 – Turn Around

Another parrot trick that owners find it easy to teach their parrots is to “turn around”. Just follow these simple directions and your parrot will learn a new trick in no time. While your parrot is in a standing position offer him a piece of food. As he starts reaching for it move one hand slowly to his back, your bird will have to turn his head around to see the food. Some birds make the turn immediately, others will require a little of practice before they learn how to do a full turn, so be patient. Once again, remember to give your parrot the food as his reward for job well done.

Parrot trick #3 – Teaching Your Parrot to Speak

Teaching your parrot how to speak can solve the problem of screeching with birds that are too vocal. Many birds use the screeching to get their owners get attention. Both, you and your parrot will enjoy the parrot’s vocalization more when he can actually say words. By teaching a parrot talk you can enjoy his company more. To make the process easier and more enjoyable for your parrot, remember that you should to start with only one simple – one or two syllables – word. You can of course teach your parrot one of your favorite words. The most popular first word to teach your parrot is “hello”. Repeat the word slowly several times until the parrot sounds the word in response. Once your parrot responds, give him his food reward. The first sound your parrot makes may not be the word that you are trying to teach him. Once again – be patient – the idea is to get your bird to respond to your voice. You can repeat this exercise several times until the parrot begins to mimic the word.

Teaching your parrot tricks is great fun! But, as always consistency, patience, and affection are very important. If you make the effort to train your parrot on a regular basis, the trick’s success rate will be much higher.

For more information on teaching your parrot tricks click here.

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How To Groom Your Guinea Pig?

Although guinea pigs are low maintenance and easy to take care for pets, they still require some routine grooming.

The Nails

Your guinea pig’s nails need frequent trimming. You can also let your guinea pigs file his nails on rocks, rough stones or bricks, so you don’t have to clip them.

The hardest part of trimming your guinea pigs nails is holding him still, as most likely he will be nervous and will squirm a lot during the process. With patience and practice, the process will become part of your routine and your guinea pig will likely get used to it and grow to be less timid. The best solution is to have someone to help you. Wrap your guinea pig in a towel, with his feet sticking out. Have one person hold the guinea pig while the other trims the nails. If you have no help, place your guinea pig on a tennis racket and cover him with a light towel, which should calm him down a little.

Be careful not to cut your guinea pig’s nails too short. To avoid cutting into the quick (the part inside the nail where the blood vessel and nerve endings are located) do not clip more than 1/4 inch of the nail tip. In light or translucent nails (in most guinea pigs), the quick is clearly visible, in black nails, the quick is nearly impossible to see, so you will need to guess.

If you accidentally cut into the quick and cause some bleeding do not be terrified. Simply stop the bleeding using Kwik-Stop powder or similar product that all pet stores sell. You can also use iodine, which will stop the bleeding altogether. Make sure the bleeding stops before putting your pet back in his cage.

The Teeth

Like most rodents, your guinea pig has two incisors that may require regular filing by your vet. If the teeth grow too long your guinea pig won’t be able to eat. Eating or chewing on hard foods and objects helps to keep these teeth in check, so make sure there are a few things in the cage for your pet to chew on. Still, inspect your pet’s teeth regularly for chips or broken teeth as well.

Brushing

Regular brushing will keep your guinea pig coat clean, shining, and healthy. The brushing time is also a good opportunity to inspect your pet for lice or skin sores. For short haired guinea pigs the brushing needs are nominal – a few times a week works well. But if you have one with longer hair daily brushing is vital.

For short haired pet use a small brush with gentle bristles. Long fur that might get tangled, will require a small metal comb, which will remove all of the excess hair and mites.

Bathing

Bathing is quite stressful for guinea pigs, since they do not like to be bathed. Fortunately, most guinea pigs rarely need bathing, if ever. If however, you do need to bathe your guinea pig (lice or recommended by your vet) use a shampoo formulated especially for guinea pigs (cavies); a mild shampoo for kittens, or baby shampoo will work as well. Dry your guinea pig with a towel the best you can and keep her warm until he is completely dry.

For more information on grooming your guinea pig click here.

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Bringing Your Guinea Pig Home – Give Him Time To Adjust

Your guinea pig need time to adjust to new life

You finally brought your guinea pig home and cannot wait to sit on your couch, read the paper or watch TV while he is happily munching snacks in your lap. It will happen, but with time, practice and patience.

During the first 3-4 days it can be very tempting to pick him up and cuddle with him. However, this is a new environment and a very stressful time for your new pet. You need to provide hiding spots for your guinea pig, especially when you have more than one guinea pig. Each cavy needs his or her own place or a fight could break out. Give your guinea pig several days to adjust to this new life. But, remember – you don’t want to scare him, so take small steps and be patient.

Looming over your guinea pig’s cage will only frighten him

Shadowing him is only going to terrify your guinea pig. Instead, when you want to observe him, kneel down to eye level with the cage.

Bribery really works when building trust with your guinea pig

As crazy as it sounds, the best way to get your guinea pig to trust you is bribery with treats. There are so many things your guinea pig loves to eat that finding something to bribe him will not be an issue and it will help gain his trust.

Start by showing your guinea pig the delicious treat, and then set it at the cage’s open door. After that relax, sit with your hands in your lap, and wait. After awhile, if he didn’t show interest in the treat, pick it up slowly, close the cage door and leave. Keep trying a few times a day until he gets the idea that he should to come and get the treat.

Each time he comes, try to move a little closer to the cage. This will give your guinea pig a chance to get used to your presence. With time he will become less apprehensive and eventually run and jump in excitement when he sees you coming.

Time to get more affectionate with your guinea pig …

Once your guinea pig is used to your presence, you can attempt physical contact by careful and gentle stroking, brushing and caressing his fur, scratching his ears or rubbing his belly. But be very careful and do not attempt to pick him up yet. And remember to be calm and tender as sudden movements or too much contact will only scare him away, and destroy the tentative bond of trust you’ve built with him, and possibly damage any relationship in the future.

How to hold your guinea pig, so you won’t hurt him?

When you first handle your guinea pig, do so in a quiet room. Use extreme caution when picking up and holding your guinea pig. Cup the torso with your hand and carry him gently, ensuring that his entire body is supported. Remember that your guinea pig has a very fragile bone structure and he can be easily injured if dropped or if your grasp is too strong.

If you are patient, he will eventually welcome your presence and the attention you are giving him. After a while, he will actually request it by squealing when he sees you near.

For more information on how to help your guinea pig adjust to his new life click here.

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Common Health Problems in Guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs are extremely fragile, and are more prone to illness then other pets. Guinea pigs are normally very active animals, and signs of any health problems become immediately visible. The deterioration rate of guinea pig is quick and it could result in sudden death if not treated properly. There is no substitute for taking your guinea pig for an exam/checkup to a competent vet. If you suspect your guinea pig is ill, do not hesitate to ask your veterinarian. It is better to be safe than sorry.

Here are the most common symptoms of illness in guinea pig:

Sneezing & Discharge from the Nose

Sometimes, your guinea pig can become allergic to his bedding. Clean the cage and change the bedding. If that doesn’t help, remove him from the area completely.

Coughing, Labored Breathing and Wheezing

Constant coughing can be a sign of a serious illness. If the coughing is accompanied by wheezing or labored breathing, contact your veterinarian immediately, as it is most likely a respiratory infection. It is caused by congestion in the lungs, and can lead to pneumonia if left untreated.

Scratching

Excessive scratching is normally a sign of parasites or a fungal infection. Check for parasites by brushing their hair and inspecting the skin. Lice are normally a small brown color. With parasites, use medicated shampoo and immediately clean and disinfect the cage.

Milky-White or Pink Urine

Extremely clear/white urine could mean an increased level of calcium, as this can lead to bladder stones in some guinea pigs. Adjust his diet promptly and take him to your veterinarian. Pink urine indicates blood in the urine and is often an indicator of bladder stones. If your guinea pig shows blood in his urine, you should get to him to the vet immediately.

Diarrhea or Soft Stool

Often times, this is a symptom of imbalanced diet – too much or a new vegetable in his diet. Adjust the diet and feed your guinea pig grass hay, and lactobacillus acidophilus in capsule form. If your guinea pig’s condition does not improve within hours, rush her to a vet. Your guinea pig can die if diarrhea is left untreated.

Hair Loss

There are many different reasons for hair loss in a guinea pig, including mites. Massive hair loss across the body is caused by ringworm, and sometimes ovarian cysts. You should call your vet and ask for advice.

Watery Eyes

Watery eyes are often caused by irritants in the eye, like excessive dust. Allergies are also common source.  You can try to rinse the irritants out on your own or let your vet do it. Sometimes, however, eye sores are caused by cysts on the eyelid, and these need to be removed by a trained veterinarian.

Stiff Joints

The main reason is deficiency of Vitamin C, and needs to be treated immediately. Call your vet to schedule an appointment. Make sure that your pig is getting at least 10 mg of calcium a day!

Head Tilting

If your piggy is tilting his head to one side, and having issues walking, it’s probably a middle-ear infection. Get him to the vet as soon as possible, as this can damage your guinea pig’s hearing.

Seizures

Most seizures involve, in addition to the head lift or tilt, twitching of the muscles and eyes, which can last for several minutes after the seizure has passed. There are two ‘types’ of seizures. If his head is straight up in the air, without a tilt, then he’s probably got mites that burrow under often attack the nervous system.

Tilting head to one side or curling body during the seizure can be caused by a variety of factors: genetic seizure disorders to dietary problems. Head to the vet as soon as possible to determine the cause.

For more information on health problems in guinea pigs click here.

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